Convert an Existing Mortise Lock to Remote Opening With an Electric Strike

Short answer: you can make an existing mortise lock open by remote without changing the lock or handle. An electric strike replaces the metal strike plate in the door frame; when the remote is pressed, the strike releases the lock's latch for a moment so the door can be pushed open. On our store a ready strike-and-remote kit costs ₹3,999 to ₹5,999, and the STFC-02 strike alone is ₹2,490.

How does an electric strike work with a mortise lock?

A mortise lock has a spring latch that clicks into a pocket in the door frame, behind a flat strike plate. An electric strike is a replacement for that pocket with a hinged side, called the keeper. Normally the keeper is held shut and the latch cannot leave. When the strike gets a pulse of power from a remote receiver, reader or exit button, the keeper is free to swing and the door pushes open with the latch still out. When the door closes, the latch clicks back in and the door is locked again.

Nothing changes on the door itself. The handle inside still opens it, and the key outside still works. That is why this is the cheapest way to add remote opening to a wooden or metal door that already has a good mortise lock.

Will it work with my door?

Check three things before you buy:

• The latch, not the deadbolt. A strike releases the spring latch only. If someone turns the key and throws the deadbolt, the remote cannot open the door. Use the latch for daily locking and the deadbolt only when the premises are shut.
• Room in the frame. The strike body needs a deeper pocket than a plain strike plate. Wooden and steel frames usually have room. Thin aluminium sections may not, so measure the frame depth against the strike body first.
• A door that closes properly. The latch must reach the strike every time. If the door drops or rubs, fix the hinges or fit a door closer first.

Should the strike be fail-safe or fail-secure?

The STFC-02 can be set either way. Set to fail-secure, the door stays locked in a power cut and the inside handle still lets people out, which suits most homes, cabins and shops. Set to fail-safe, the door opens freely when power fails, which suits doors that are part of an escape route. Our guide to fail-safe vs fail-secure locks explains the choice. Set the mode before fitting the strike in the frame.

How to fit an electric strike to an existing mortise lock

1. Remove the old strike plate. Unscrew the flat plate from the frame and keep the screws.
2. Mark the new cut-out. Hold the strike against the frame so its keeper lines up with the latch, and mark the outline. Close the door gently to confirm the latch centre.
3. Cut the pocket. Chisel or rout the frame to take the strike body. On a steel frame, an electrician or fabricator will cut it with the right tools.
4. Run the cable. Drill through the frame for a 2-core cable from the strike to where the receiver and power supply will sit, indoors and away from water.
5. Fit the strike. Screw it in flush with the frame. If your kit has an adjustable latch, as Combo-CN288 does, use it so the latch sits snugly in the keeper without rattling.
6. Wire it up. Connect the power supply to the remote receiver and the receiver's output to the strike, following the terminal labels printed on the receiver board. The receiver powers the strike for a moment each time a remote key is pressed.
7. Pair the remotes. On Combo-CN288, press the learn button on the receiver, then a key on the remote. Repeat for the second remote.
8. Test. Close the door, press the remote and push. It should open, then lock again when closed. Check that the inside handle and the outside key still work normally.

Want an exit button or a card reader as well? The same strike can be wired to a reader's relay, and the wiring is the same idea as for an EM lock, using COM and NO for a fail-secure strike. See how to wire an access control lock and exit switch.

Strike lock kits for existing mortise locks: prices

Which kit should you buy?

• Just want to open the door from inside the house or cabin: Combo-CN33 (₹3,999) is the lowest-cost complete kit.
• Door where the latch does not sit perfectly: Combo-CN288 (₹4,600) adds an adjustable latch.
• Staff entry by card, PIN or finger: Combo-CN238 (₹6,599) or Combo-CN169 (₹6,999).
• Opening from your phone as well: Combo-CN90 (₹7,599) with a Wi-Fi receiver.

For an outer metal gate without a mortise lock, an electronic rim lock is the better fit; see our electronic lock for main gate guide. Extra remotes and receivers are in remotes and receivers, and all strike kits are in drop bolt and electric strike locks. Our 433 MHz remote guide covers pairing extra remotes.

FAQ

Can I make my existing door lock open by remote?

Yes, if it is a mortise lock with a spring latch. Replace the strike plate in the frame with an electric strike and add a remote receiver and power supply, as in Combo-CN33.

Do I need to change my door handle or lock?

No. The mortise lock, handle and key stay as they are. Only the strike plate in the frame is replaced.

Will the remote open the door if the key is locked?

No. A strike releases only the spring latch. If the deadbolt is thrown with the key, the door stays locked until it is unlocked by key.

What happens in a power cut?

It depends on how the strike is set. The STFC-02 can be set fail-secure, so the door stays locked and opens with the handle or key, or fail-safe, so it opens freely.

Can I add a card reader or exit button later?

Yes. The strike can be wired to an access control reader's relay or an exit button. Ready kits such as Combo-CN238 include a card reader.

Does it work on aluminium doors?

Only if the frame section is deep enough to take the strike body. Measure first, or send us a photo of the frame on WhatsApp.

Prices are NavKar Systems website prices on 27 October 2026, inclusive of GST, and may change.